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Approaching the Cho La from the west -- the pass is the
notch in the middle of the photo, 5400m or 17,700ft. This is the only
picture I took on the approach to the pass -- I was so sick by then
with bronchitis, possibly giardia, altitude, and you-name-it that it
was hard enough just
to walk, forget about photography! |
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Here's what climbing the pass was like -- I'm glad
Nancy took this picture, because again I didn't take any photos at all
on the way up. |
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Rinzin at the saddle of the pass. |
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Coming down the eastern side of the Cho La pass: the
mountains on the right are Cholatse and Taboche, each roughly 6350m or
20,800ft ( (I believe Cholatse is the big one that's most prominent,
and Taboche is slightly behind it. At the end of the valley the big one
there is Ama Dablam. |
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Breakfast under Cholatse the morning after our pass
crossing. I'm in the front on the right, in case you can't recognize
anyone under all our winter gear! We're at our campsite in Dzongla
(4850m, 15,900ft). This is just before I split off to head downhill for
recovery's sake and the group headed toward Lobuche, Gorak Shep, Kala
Pattar, and Everest Basecamp. (from Nancy's camera) |
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Now I've got several of Nancy's pictures of the part of
the trek I missed -- here is Nuptse (roughly 7860m or 25,800ft) from
Gorak Shep. Looks like there's a fair bit of ice flowing down the
valley? You're looking at the Khumbu Glacier!
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Nancy's camera again: Looks like she's near the top of
Kala Pattar (5550m or 18,200ft), and we're looking at Everest (center,
8848m or 29,028ft, in case I didn't give you that info before) and
Nuptse (right). |
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The wreckage of a helicopter that crashed at Basecamp
in May '03 (the 50th anniversary celebration of the first successful
climb of Everest). (Nancy's photo) |
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The Khumbu icefall seen from the area of basecamp --
this is one of those legendary places that I really really really wish
I could've seen in person, to get an idea of the scale of it...
but there was no way in my condition then that I could've done it.
Looks
amazing from here. (Nancy's photo). |
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The icefall, closer view. Climbers go through here back
and forth several times as they acclimatize to climb Everest. Dangerous
place, lots of crevasses, etc, and huge unstable towers of ice that
could fall on you at any time -- more people die here than anywhere
else on Everest. (Nancy's photo). |
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While Nancy and the others were seeing those sights, I
descended with one of our sherpas to recover from a variety of
illnesses at a lower elevation. After a stop at a teahouse, we arrived
here in Pheriche (4280m, 14,040ft) by lunchtime. This is the main
street in Pheriche, and the sign here is for the lodge we stayed at. |
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Close-up of part of the Everest memorial in Pheriche --
I found several names I recognized from having read a couple books
about the 1996 disaster. Interestingly, there are a number of empty
spots at the bottom too... guess you have to figure that people will
keep dying up there. |
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Okay, after 2 nights in Pheriche, I had some of my
energy back and made a short hike
over a ridge to end up in Dingboche (4350m or 14,270ft), where I met up
with the rest of the group -- here's a view from our campsite the next
morning as we woke up there. |
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A girl carrying a heavy load making her way up this
hill... |
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Ama Dablam, my new favorite mountain... |
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Tengboche Monastery, 3860m, 12,660ft. |
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Setting up camp at Tengboche -- in the distance, to the
left are Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse, and to the right is Ama Dablam. |
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Rinzin, Jan, and Nancy, at Tengboche. |
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I walked around the side of the monastery to take some
pictures... |
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Monastery gate (looking out from the inside). |
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One of my favorite pictures, this is the corner of the
monastery gate, with a partially clouded Lhotse behind. |
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We went inside the monastery where they were going to
be having a ceremony this evening -- Nancy's digital camera was able to
take photos despite the incredibly low light -- here's some detail of
the ceiling... (Nancy's photo) |
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More views inside the monastery... (Nancy's photo) |
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Our lunch spot enroute from Tengboche to Khumjung. |
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Ama Dablam from Khumjung. This was a pretty cool town,
more well-to-do and "modern" than most, in part because most families
here are very well tied in to the trekking industry... Also, Sir Edmund
Hillary founded a school and a hospital here. It's managed to keep a
very traditional feel despite all this, though. |
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The ever-present red duffels... |
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I played at some flash photography inside the Khumjung
monastery... Here are a bunch of candles with a backdrop of these
colorful cloth things that I'm told are just decorative (not
particularly symbolic of anything). |
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Along the walls on both sides were all these little
spaces that house some kind of scripture books... |
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Flowers and pictures of the Dalai Lama, also in front
of the altar. |
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Example of some of the artwork inside the monastery. |
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Sir Edmund Hillary -- in case you don't know, he was
the first guy to summit Everest (1953) and has poured a ton of time and
money into supporting the people of this region... Among other things,
founding a school and a hospital here in the town of Khumjung. (Nancy's
photo -- it was too freakin' cold that morning to think about taking my
hands out of my gloves....) |
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Among our last views of Everest, the fog had a cool
effect here... This was from along the trail between Khumjung and
Namche -- first we ascended to a ridge just above town, then dove down
steeply on a 1000+ft drop to Namche. |
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...And speaking of Namche, here you have it, the
"Namche Bowl" as it's called, nestled in this curve in the mountain. |
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A bit closer in to Namche, here's the center area of
town where the Tibetan market is. (Nancy's photo) |
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Closer view of the Tibetan market. |
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Also among my favorite pictures, here are some colorful
houses in Namche. |
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The group along the trail down from Namche. |
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Here you go, the last view of Everest -- seen from
partway down the Namche hill. |
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Welcome to Sagarmatha National Park! Caught the sign on
the way out -- somehow I actually don't remember even seeing it on the
way in, or I think I would've taken a picture then... |
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In Phakding, on our last camping night, we used this
lodge's dining room instead of our mess tent. All the porters, sherpas,
cooks, etc. joined us after dinner -- someone had a little drum and
they sang and danced, in celebration of the end of the trek... (Nancy's
photo) |
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Big group photo the next morning of all the porters,
sherpas, cooks, and our guide Rinzin. |
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Nice fully loaded yak train crossing this bridge
leaving Phakding on our way down to Lukla. |
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Pemba (one of our sherpa guides) walking by some prayer
wheels. |
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Ingrid wanted to try lifting the load that this porter
has been carrying for our whole trip... Doesn't she look like she's
about to break her neck? The porter is obviously amused... Nick (in the
window) looks more concerned though... |
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Big old group photo. Left to right, back row: Tracy,
Martin, Jill, Bill, Rinzin, Ingrid, Nick; front row: Richard, me, Jan,
Nancy. This was taken in front of our lodge/hotel in Lukla, where we
were all about to go take hot showers for the first time in 3 weeks! |
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And our four terrific sherpa guides, Chuda, Rudra,
Pemba, and Pharki (I hope I spelled their names anything close to
right). |
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