Patagonia: 1/05

Welcome to my trip to Patagonia!  (That's the farthest southern portions of both Argentina and Chile, in case you're searching for a map...)  I went on a mostly-hiking trip there with Neshe and her friend Sandford for almost 3 weeks in January.  The scenery was dramatic and unusual, but somehow (I think) not quite as photogenic as that on my last couple trips.  Hope you enjoy anyway!

First stop, Santiago, Chile! We had a pretty short time there... Here's a view from the top of some big hill in town.
The first day or two were largely spent driving south; along the way we stopped at a penguin colony!
So, these are Magellanic penguins (_everything_ here was either a Magellanic whatever or an Austral whatever...)
The gray fuzzy ones are babies (duh!)... This one was getting scolded, it looked like.
Here are some hiding right by the boardwalk...
Among our first views of the Paine Massif on our way to Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.
Guanacos! (closely related to the Mexican Whooping Llama, Jeff...)
Our first hike in Torres del Paine: in and back from the refugio to the famous Towers... first through some rolling hills...
Then into this beautiful valley with (finally!) some _trees_! (I was very happy about the trees...)
Rounding the bend for our first glimpse of the towers... These are the central and north towers.
Neshe along the way.
Nearing the top viewpoint: several hundred vertical feet of moraine to scramble over -- gave me flashbacks to the Cho La in Nepal, but oh, that was about 13,000 ft. higher!
The Towers! I knew I should've brought a warming filter. Anyway it was snowing up there and we were _really_ lucky to get this view. Awesome!
Off to the left of the same scene; I just thought the lighting was cool.
A closer look at the towers.
Neshe and Sandford at the top!
I think this was early on the 2nd day's walk, to the next refugio. I loved the color of the lakes!
We also had clearer weather that 2nd day...
Pretty flowers... I don't remember what they were called.
Along the hike up the French Valley, I believe this would be day 3?  Windy!
At the highest viewpoint we went to along the French Valley... I think you can just see Neshe's head in the bottom of the picture to prove how incredibly windy it was!!
Another view of the same. Despite the wind noise, we could also hear occasional avalanches, glacier sounds, and the like. The French Glacier is what you're looking at.
View down the other way from that same viewpoint. I love the different colors of the lakes!
Probably the next day... We were impressed by the waves that could be kicked up by the wind on this lake...
A hike out and back to view Grey Glacier, see the three tongues of it coming out into this lake? It was _so_ cold, windy, and rainy that day that we turned back at the closer viewpoint, but still got this view.  Still looking for that warming filter!
Along the way back, a look at icebergs floating in Lago Grey.
Later that evening, I believe... The sky put on a nice show for us from the refugio.
And here's a map of what we just did in Torres del Paine National Park!
This was just at a rest stop we made on the bus going from Torres del Paine park to the Perito Moreno glacier, just happened to see this fox sitting beatifully in front of the mountains...
Here he is again... I don't remember now whether he was a red fox or a gray fox, though they have both down here. Looks kinda red?
And these are rheas (might as well be ostriches, I don't know the difference); see the mom and several babies following her? (I can't believe this is the only decent picture I got of them; they were all over!)
A last look at the Paine massif as we drove away...
Approaching the Perito Moreno Glacier!
A closer look at the ice.
This was _so_ cool. It's huge! I regret that I don't have written down the dimensions. But trust me. Huge!
I'm rather pleased with my composition on this one ;)
Ah! More Patagonian weather! We are now in Argentina, hiking to a would-be view of Mt. FitzRoy. I'm told it's back there somewhere...
Along the approach... Yup, it's definitely back there behind the clouds... At least we had this fine glacier to look at too.
Here it is again! This is from our close viewpoint by a lake basically at its base.
...And finally, along the return route, Fitz Roy made its appearance. (the one on the right. To the left I believe is Poincenot).
And then we took a day trip to go walk on a glacier!! Fun and beautiful!!  This guy comes down off the Southern Patagonian Icecap, snaking its way toward the lake that it fills.
On the glacier...
A "glacial erratic" (boulder carried along by the glacier to be dropped off someplace odd...)
Don't fall in!



Next stop, Ushuaia, the "southernmost city in the world" to see some of Tierra del Fuego. Here are some penguins in a tourist shop...
We just had one hiking day in Tierra del Fuego, basically walked along the Beagle Channel (looking for "DARWIN WAS HERE" graffiti, mostly...)
Very peaceful along the water...
Feeling artsy today.
More art.
Some geese along the way.
Lots of trees along this one--definitely my favorite vegetation of the trip.
Next day we took a half-day cruise on the Beagle Channel to see birds and seals and stuff. Here are some seabirds.
Here's Magneto and my video camera, on the boat.
Another boat was watching too, here are several seals or sea lions...
The black and white birds are cormorants, believe it or not.
More of the same. The seals (or whatever) were quite active and made a lot of rude noises!

We flew up to Buenos Aires--I have a few more pictures than this, but on a roll of film that hasn't been developed yet. It was so nice to have the warmth and the sun again!!
One more shot in Buenos Aires.